Fact or Fiction? Mixing Exhaust Vent Types Is Problematic

Too often, attic exhaust vent types are mixed, which can short-circuit the airflow pattern in the attic space. Photo: Jerry Becker

Airflow dynamics dictates avoiding it. The manufacturers’ Installation Instructions caution against it. Building Code cites it as a violation. And yet it remains one of the most questioned, challenged and, unfortunately, ignored tips offered during our best practices in residential attic ventilation seminars.

Is it really a problem to mix or combine different types of attic exhaust ventilation (ridge vents, wind turbines, gable louvers, box vents and power fans) on the same roof above a common attic? And if it is, why will you see it so often driving through any city in North America?

Lack of information, misunderstanding the science, and resistance to breaking old habits all contribute to the persistence of mixed exhaust vents on today’s roofs. We asked roofing contractors to share their experiences to help explain what could go wrong.

Problem No. 1: Inefficient Airflow

The main reason combining different types of exhaust vents is problematic is that it disturbs the proper flow of the attic air. To best help fight heat buildup, moisture buildup and ice dams, attic ventilation must be a balanced system of intake vents (placed low on the roof in the soffit or at the roof’s edge) and exhaust vents (placed at or near the roof’s peak). This allows the incoming cooler, drier air to enter the attic at the lowest possible location, flush out any built-up heat and moisture from inside the attic all along the entire underside of the roof deck, and push it out through the exhaust vents high on the roof.

Power fans are a good exhaust vent option. So are ridge vents. But not when they are mixed together on the same roof above a common attic. Doing so could lead to inefficient airflow and weather infiltration. Photo: Sean Toms

But, if two or more different types of exhaust vents are in place, it short-circuits the system. Instead of the primary path of air being into the intake vents and out of the exhaust vents, the path is mostly between the two styles of exhaust vents. One of the types of exhaust vents becomes an intake vent because air will always follow the path of least resistance. Air will always look for the easiest, closest path to take. That path happens to be between the two types of exhaust vents. And that limits the distribution of the air to the upper region of the roof; or worse, it keeps the air circulating between the distances of the two vents closest to the peak. That is not the best way to remove heat and moisture buildup inside an attic.

“About five years ago, I had a seasoned roofer with me that just started working for our company,” recalls roofing consultant Jerry Becker, Roof Life of Oregon, Tigard, Oregon. “We walked up to this apartment complex and I noticed that there was a power fan alongside can vents (box vents) and very little intake ventilation. I placed a friendly bet with him stating that I know what the plywood already looks like underneath without looking at it. He argued with me and said, ‘This roof has plenty of ventilation; look at all the vents up top and it even has a fan!’ So, I told him that the plywood next to the fan and the closest can vents and up to the ridge is going to be perfect, but as soon as you drop down about a foot from the power fan the plywood will be as black as night.

“We go inside the attic and what do you think we found? Black microbial growth on the lower section of the roof. It was so black that it was wet. It is important not to mix exhaust vent types. It’s bad enough when you do it on a single dwelling home, but that same mistake in a multi-family home is deadly. Think of all the moisture that is created by all the families — the washer/dryer, dishwasher, sinks, showers and ourselves.”

Inefficient airflow not only can damage the roof deck but it can also prematurely age the asphalt shingles. “I see examples of this all the time,” says Trevor Atwell, owner, Atwell Exterior Services LLC, Greenville, North Carolina. “Premature aging of roofing materials, buckled sheathing and signs of rotten wood all due to the moisture and heat being trapped.”

Ironically, sometimes the desire to mix types of attic exhaust vents seems reasonable on the surface. The homeowner or the roofing contractor wants to improve the flow of air. Thus, adding more vents — even if they are different types — seems logical. But more is only better in this case if it’s more of the same type. If improved airflow is the goal, double-check if the correct type of exhaust vent is being used to match the size and design of the roof/attic and if it’s being supplied with a balanced amount of intake ventilation. Mixing exhaust is not the solution.

Box vents or power vents installed near a ridge vent can lead to inefficient airflow, which can damage the roof deck and prematurely age asphalt shingles. Photo: Trevor Atwell

“I have seen this in action and until it was explained to me why I should avoid it, the concept of mixed exhaust was a mystery I had to punt to a colleague or competitor” says Tim Chapin, owner, Your Safe and Healthy Home, Akron, Ohio. “I had a condo project with a very complex roof made even worse by the presence of ridge vents, gable vents, soffit vents, and box vents. I was amazed there was a problem because it seemed to be ventilated to the max. But now I know it was short-circuited.”

“We see it often with ridge vents and a power fan just below the ridge vent, or with box vents combined with ridge vents; sometimes all three. We call it the Ventilation Trifecta,” says Tom Picha, steep slope consultant, Affordable Roofing Inc., Aurora, Illinois. “More is good in some cases. Not all.”

“I had a house I was asked to inspect. The house had a ridge vent, box vents and vented drip edge on it,” says Jeffrey Heitzenrater, owner, Triple Peaks Roofing & Construction Inc., Westlake, Ohio. “The first thing wrong was two different types of exhaust vents. Upon a complete attic inspection, we found mold and mildew. The insulation was also packed tight at the bottom, blocking off the intake system the previous company installed. This particular roof was only eight years old and all the plywood is now bad. This was caused from the trifecta — no intake, box vents turning into intake and venting out of the ridge vent.”

Problem No. 2: Weather Infiltration

When you ask a vent to perform a task it has not been designed to tackle, you’re rolling the dice against Mother Nature. An exhaust vent mixed with another type of exhaust vent that suddenly is pulled into intake airflow duties as a result of short-circuiting is not only pulling in air, but whatever the air is carrying that very moment: rain, snow, debris. Exhaust vents are not designed to ingest anything.

One of the consequences of mixing attic exhaust vent types can be weather infiltration, such as the snow in this photo. Photo: Ron Bastian

“In the winter when freezing rain turns into fine ice particles, I observed several times the lower exhaust vents on the roof becoming intake vents instead of exhaust as designed and drawing in ice particles and snow,” says Steve DuCharme, owner, Innovative Builders Roofing & Construction, Edmond, Oklahoma.

“I have witnessed snow ingestion into the attic due to mixed exhaust vents,” says Corey Ballweg, owner and president, Mid Towne Construction Inc., Cross Plains, Wisconsin.

“I recall an attic several years ago that had ridge vent and two power fans. They installed two because they were told one wouldn’t pull enough heat out,” says Paul Vosen, president, Degenhardt Home Improvement, Madison, Wisconsin. “The house had no overhangs and the attic floor was insulated with a good vapor barrier. I was there in the rain and both power fans were running. The attic was so tight that the power fans were actually pulling rain in through the ridge vent. Never have I seen that before — nor have I seen it since, but I never forgot it.”

The weather infiltration problems that can result from mixing exhaust vent types may not catch a homeowner’s attention right away. Not many homeowners regularly check their attic.

“I worked on a roof that did not have any intake vents at the soffit but did have two gable vents in addition, a power fan, and four box vents,” says Scott Dennison, president, Dennison Exterior Solutions & Gutter Topper, Saint Joseph, Michigan. “Over the brief 15-year life of the roof, when the power vent would turn on it turned the four box vents into intake vents which sucked water into the attic and destroyed the roof deck adjacent and below the vent.”

The most common exhaust mixture our seminar attendees tell us they see: gable end louvers combined with something else. Often the homeowner demands that the roofing contractor leave the gable end vent in place despite the fact a ridge vent is being installed as an exhaust vent improvement. The homeowner’s reasoning: The gable louver adds a decorative touch to the home’s exterior. Solution: Do what Ron Bastian does.

“I’ve noticed snow and wind-driven rain coming in a gable end vent which was combined with a ridge vent,” says Bastian, owner and president, Bastian Roofing Inc., Richfield, Wisconsin. “We closed up the gable end vent from inside the attic and this cured the problem I was called out for.” By closing up the gable vent from inside, the attic short-circuiting is eliminated and the homeowner can still enjoy the cosmetics from the exterior.

“We have witnessed numerous issues related to short-circuiting,” says Shawn Bellis, owner, EPIC Exteriors, Overland Park, Kansas. “We’ve seen fine wind-driven Midwest snow sucked into the exhaust vents — gable vents mixed with ridge vents, for example.”

There’s a Much Better Way

Inefficient airflow, mold, rotted decking, prematurely aging shingles, and weather infiltration into the attic does not have to be the final outcome. There’s a better way, but it may take a commitment to educating the homeowner and fellow roofing contractors. I believe that’s one of the reasons our best practices seminars are so well received.

“I had mixed attic ventilation on my own home,” says Sean Toms, quality control inspector, S & K Roofing, Eldersburg, Maryland. “After attending the seminar a few years ago, I looked in my attic. I had condensation on the roof nails. I had a ridge vent, fully vented soffit and gable vents. I closed the gable vents and added insulation to my attic floor. Problem solved.”

“I seem to run into mixed exhaust vents every week. Homeowners think that the more types of ventilation on the roof the better they are,” says Richard Turner, owner, RJ Turner Remodeling, LLC, High Point, North Carolina. “After explaining the things I have learned in the Air Vent Inc. seminars, they quickly understand the correct way things should be done.”

About the Author: Paul Scelsi is marketing communications manager at Air Vent Inc., and leader of its Attic Ventilation: Ask the Expert™ seminars. He’s also chairman of the Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association Ventilation Task Force. For more information, visit www.airvent.com.

Boral Roofing Introduces Florida Concrete Roof Tile Collections Brochure

Boral Roofing Introduces Florida Concrete Roof Tile Collections Brochure for the Florida region.

Boral Roofing Introduces Florida Concrete Roof Tile Collections Brochure for the Florida region.

Boral Roofing introduces its Florida Concrete Roof Tile Collections brochure. The brochure provides an overview of products designed for the Florida region, including color graphics of its premium and standard profiles and colors.

Boral Roofing has been serving the Florida market for over 30 years. By focusing on innovations in manufacturing, Boral offers durability. The two Boral facilities in Florida provide pre-blended tile colors creating traditional, transitional, and contemporary looks for architectural styles.

Aesthetic value is not the only thing Boral offers. The company also offers an energy efficient roof system. The Boral Cool Roof System uses five components to reduce attic temperatures providing up to a 22% reduction in heating and cooling costs.

Attic Ventilation in Accessory Structures

Construction Code Requirements for Proper Attic Ventilation Should Not Be Overlooked in Buildings That Don’t Contain Conditioned Space

The 2015 International Residential Code and International Building Code, published by the International Code Council, include requirements for attic ventilation to help manage temperature and moisture that could accumulate in attic spaces. Although the code requirements are understood to apply to habitable buildings, not everyone understands how the code addresses accessory structures, like workshops, storage buildings, detached garages and other buildings. What’s the answer? The code treats all attic spaces the same, whether the space below the attic is conditioned or not. (A conditioned space is a space that is heated and/or cooled.)

The 2015 International Residential Code and International Building Code include requirements for attic ventilation to help manage temperature and moisture that could accumulate in attic spaces. Although the code requirements are understood to apply to habitable buildings, not everyone understands the code also addresses accessory structures, like workshops, storage buildings, detached garages and other buildings.

The 2015 International Residential Code and International Building Code include requirements for attic ventilation to help manage temperature and moisture that could accumulate in attic spaces. Although the code requirements are understood to apply to habitable buildings, not everyone understands the code also addresses accessory structures, like workshops, storage buildings, detached garages and other buildings.


The administrative provisions of the IRC that set the scope for the code are found in Chapter 1. Section R101.2 and read:

    The provisions of the International Residential Code for One- and Two-family Dwellings shall apply to the construction, alteration, movement, enlargement, replacement, repair, equipment, use and occupancy, location, removal and demolition of detached one- and two-family dwellings and townhouses not more than three stories above grade plane in height with a separate means of egress and their accessory structures not more than three stories above grade plane in height.

Let’s clear up any confusion about the code. The ventilated attic requirements in the 2015 IRC include the following language in Section R806.1:

    Enclosed attics and enclosed rafter spaces formed where ceilings are applied directly to the underside of roof rafters shall have cross ventilation for each separate space by ventilating openings protected against the entrance of rain or snow.

An accessory structure is actually defined in the IRC:

    ACCESSORY STRUCTURE. A structure that is accessory to and incidental to that of the dwelling(s) and that is located on the same lot.

The IBC also includes attic ventilation requirements that are essentially the same as the IRC. Section 101.2 of the 2015 IBC contains this text:

    The provisions of this code shall apply to the construction, alteration, relocation, enlargement, replacement, repair, equipment, use and occupancy, location, maintenance, removal and demolition of every building or structure or any appurtenances connected or attached to such buildings or structures.

This requirement for ventilated at-tics in accessory structures in the IBC and IRC is mandatory unless the attic is part of the conditioned space and is sealed within the building envelope. Unvented, or sealed, attics allow any ducts located in the attic to be inside the conditioned space, which can have beneficial effects on energy efficiency. For accessory structures, which are typically unheated, that provision does not apply.

It’s important to note the codes do contain detailed requirements for the design and construction of sealed at-tics to reduce the chance of moisture accumulation in the attic. These requirements have been in the codes for a relatively short time and remain the subject of continued debate at ICC as advocates of sealed attics work to improve the code language in response to concerns about performance issues from the field.

Traditional construction methods for wood-framed buildings include ventilated attics (with insulation at the ceiling level) as a means of isolating the roof assembly from the heated and cooled space inside the building. Attic ventilation makes sense for a variety of reasons. Allowing outside air into the attic helps equalize the temperature of the attic with outdoor space. This equalization has several benefits, including lower roof deck and roof covering temperatures, which can extend the life of the deck and roof covering. However, it is not just temperature that can be equalized by a properly ventilated attic. Relative humidity differences can also be addressed by vented attics. Moisture from activity in dwelling units including single-family residences and other commercial occupancies can lead to humidity entering the attic space by diffusion or airflow. It is important to ensure moisture is removed or it can remain in the attic and lead to premature deterioration and decay of the structure and corrosion of metal components, including fasteners and connectors.

In northern climate zones, a ventilated attic can isolate heat flow escaping from the conditioned space and reduce the chance of uneven snow melt, ice dams, and icicle formation on the roof and eaves. Ice damming can lead to all kinds of moisture problems for roof assemblies; it is bad enough that roof assemblies have to deal with moisture coming from inside the attic, but ice damming can allow water to find its way into roof covering assemblies by interrupting the normal water-shedding process. For buildings with conditioned space, the attic can isolate the roof assembly from the heat source but only if there is sufficient ceiling insulation, properly installed over the top of the wall assemblies to form a continuous envelope. Failure to ensure continuity in the thermal envelope is a recipe for disaster in parts of the country where snow can accumulate on the roof.

Accessory buildings, like workshops, that occasionally may be heated with space heaters or other sources are less likely to have insulation to block heat flow to the roof, which can result in ice damming. Ventilating the attic can prevent this phenomenon.

Accessory buildings, like workshops, that occasionally may be heated with space heaters or other sources are less likely to have insulation to block heat flow to the roof, which can result in ice damming. Ventilating the attic can prevent this phenomenon.


For unheated buildings in the north, ice damming is less likely to occur, unless the structure is occasionally heated. Accessory buildings, like workshops, that might be heated from time to time with space heaters or other sources are less likely to have insulation to block heat flow to the roof. In these situations, a little heat can go a long way toward melting snow on the roof.

While the ice damming and related performance problems are a real concern even for accessory structures, it is the removal of humidity via convective airflow in the attic space that is the benefit of ventilated attics in accessory structures. We know that moisture will find its way into buildings. Providing a way for it to escape is a necessity, especially for enclosed areas like attics.

There are many types of accessory structures, and some will include conditioned space. Depending on the use of the structure, moisture accumulation within the building will vary. For residential dwelling units, building scientists understand the normal moisture drive arising from occupancy. Cooking, laundering and showering all contribute moisture to the interior environment.

The IRC and IBC include requirements for the net-free vent area of intake (lower) and exhaust (upper) vents and also require the vents be installed in accordance with the vent manufacturer’s installation instructions. The amount of required vent area is reduced when a balanced system is installed; most ventilation product manufacturers recommend a balance between intake and exhaust. The IRC recommends that balanced systems include intake vents with between 50 to 60 percent of the total vent area to reduce the chance of negative pressure in the attic system, which can draw conditioned air and moisture from conditioned space within the building. This is less of an issue for non-habitable spaces from an energy-efficiency perspective, but moisture accumulation is a concern in all structures.

PHOTOS: Lomanco Vents

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Share This List with Customers to Help Them Prepare Their Roofs for Winter

We at Greenawalt Roofing Co. understand how busy the winter months can be. We also know that with a backload of work from the fall combined with cold or extreme weather conditions and shorter days, even the simplest jobs can take twice as long. Unfortunately, customers do not always know this and expect their issue to be fixed as soon as possible.

Greenawalt Roofing Co., Landisville, Pa., recommends installing Air Vent Inc.’s ShingleVent II, which, when combined with intake vents, provides an efficient and effective ventilation system to avoid ice dams.

Greenawalt Roofing Co., recommends installing Air Vent Inc.’s ShingleVent II, which, when combined with intake vents, provides an efficient and effective ventilation system to avoid ice dams. PHOTO: AIR VENT INC.

Help your customers by educating them about how to prevent and recognize potential problems before cold weather arrives. You can communicate with them directly, mail them a flyer or make a personal connection by email. Let them know how they can do a simple and safe roof inspection, or schedule an appointment for your team to do a professional and more thorough one. Finding trouble areas before they turn into full-fledged problems will not only save your customers money in the long run, which they will appreciate, but it can also help them avoid an emergency during the winter months.

Here are a few things you can tell your customers to do to be proactive for the upcoming winter months:

1. Do a quick inspection of the overall roof condition. Depending on the pitch of your roof, you may be able to see these things from the ground or by using binoculars. If you find some issues or cannot safely view the majority of your roof, we recommend you call us or a licensed roofing company for a thorough inspection to see what can be done before the harsh winter arrives.

Look for any damage that may have been done since the last time you took a look, and keep an eye out for some of the following warning signs:

  • Damaged shingles
  • Missing shingles
  • Loss of granulation
  • Decayed shingles
  • Wind damage
  • Broken or cracked shingles

2. Check wall or step flashing. Flashing are the metal coverings over the joints or seams where your roof intersects with other exterior home systems. Flashing prevents water from reaching the underlayment and from penetrating the exterior envelope and affecting your home’s ceilings and walls. If your flashing is unsealed, degraded, missing or damaged, then water will find a way underneath the metal strips. Although generally not a catastrophic system failure, it often shows up only after it is too late to prevent, so it is important to make sure these are intact for the winter.

3. Take a look at your skylights. This is another place where you should make sure the flashing is intact. Piled up snow and icy rains can put a lot of pressure on skylights and the flashing around their seals.

4. Review your chimney and other vent-pipe flashing. These can also become quick channels for water to enter the home. Accumulated snow slows water drainage off the roof, providing extra time for water to enter the home through even the smallest hole or crack, so it is important that these flashing are intact prior to the start of winter.

5. Inspect your attic. Your attic is a safe way to look for roofing issues, assuming there is a safe and easily accessible entrance into your attic space. Be sure to look for any water damage, dark spots, sagging wood and even daylight coming through the roof decking.

6. Clean your gutters! Gutters clear of debris do a great job of diverting water away from your house and protecting your home and foundation from the effects of water pooling. Although it is important year round to keep your gutters cleaned, it is especially important during the winter months. Because autumn has just ended, you probably have more leaves in the gutters than any other time of the year.

Try to keep your gutters clean throughout the winter, as well. They can easily become clogged. If your gutters are clogged, water (melted snow) begins to freeze and expand, which can cause severe damage to the fascia, causing the entire system to fail. The water also could start to freeze underneath the shingles, creating an ice dam.

7. Watch for ice dams. Winter’s most common roofing issues are ice dams. Ice dams form when snow sits on the roof and goes through a melt and freeze sequence. As the snow melts and flows down the roof and reaches the freezing surface below, it refreezes, causing the ice dam to form, which can damage shingles and underlayment. Seeking a release, the water backed up behind the ice dam seeps into cracks in the home’s exterior, leading to structural damage and mold growth.

Unfortunately, ice dams are a result of several factors and often require a licensed professional to remedy the problem. Inadequate insulation, poor ventilation and a combination of cold temperatures and sunny days lead to ice dams. You can prevent ice dams by ensuring your roof is adequately ventilated.

Helping your regular customers understand the steps they can take to avoid winter emergencies will give them peace of mind going into the colder months and, hopefully, allow you to focus on cold-weather emergencies. Plus, you may find them even more willing to send work your way when things calm down because of the trust you have built with them.

The Attic Needs Ventilation but How Much Exactly?

Good news, roofing contractors: You do not have to be good with numbers nor do you have to enjoy math to be able to quickly—and accurately—calculate the amount of attic ventilation needed for residential attics. Here it is, a handy shortcut for quick calculations:

Intake exhaust airflow in a house

Intake exhaust airflow in a house

Attic square footage ÷ 2 = square inches of EXHAUST and square inches of INTAKE Net Free Area (NFA) needed. (NFA is the unobstructed area through which air can pass through a vent, usually measured in square inches. Ventilation manufacturers assign an NFA value to the non-motorized vents they make.)

This shortcut conveniently calculates the 2015 International Residential Building Code MINIMUM (IRC Section R806 – Roof Ventilation 1, which states, in part, 1 square foot of Net Free Area for every 150 square feet of attic floor space with the attic defined as length x width floor of the attic). The shortcut actually overestimates a bit but that’s OK. It puts the roofing contractor in the ballpark which is useful when estimating.

To calculate the allowable IRC EXCEPTION to the MINIUMUM (that is, 1/300 ratio) here’s the shortcut:

Attic square footage ÷ 4 = square inches of EXHAUST and square inches of INTAKE Net Free Area needed.

Here’s an example using the shortcut for the 1/150 Code Minimum.
Say the contractor is standing in front of a house that has an attic with 2,200 square feet.

    2,200 ÷ 2 =

  • 1,100 square inches of EXHAUST net free area needed
  • 1,100 square inches of INTAKE net free area needed
  • The next step is to select a suitable exhaust vent and intake vent that fits the roof design for best performance and best aesthetics. After that, find out the vent’s NFA as rated by the manufacturer. Divide the vent’s NFA into 1,100 to yield the number of vents needed (either in linear feet or units/pieces). That’s it. It’s time to install.

There is a longer “official” formula based on building code you can reference or point your clients to for reassurance that you know what you’re talking about. Most attic ventilation manufacturers list the longer formula on their websites and inside key product brochures. But the shortcut is just as good and faster!

Calculation Q & A

Here are the answers to the five most frequent questions pertaining to calculating attic ventilation.

1. “Why is it important that the amount of intake ventilation matches the amount of exhaust?”
The goal of an effective attic ventilation system is to help fight heat buildup inside the attic during the warmer months and moisture buildup in the colder months. Additionally, in climates where snow and ice are common, attic ventilation can help fight the formation of ice dams. To achieve these goals the attic needs cooler, dryer air entering low (near the eave or the roof’s lowest edge) so it can flush out any warm, moist air that may have built up inside, pushing it out through the roof’s exhaust vents positioned as close to the peak as possible. This balanced-airflow approach allows the air to “wash” the entire underside of the roof deck from low to high.

2. “What if it’s not possible to balance the attic ventilation system 50 percent intake/50 percent exhaust?”
If it cannot be balanced it’s better to have more intake than exhaust because it has been our experience most attics lack proper intake ventilation, which is the leading cause of venting callbacks. Additionally, any excess intake will become exhaust on the leeward side of the house because the intake vents on the windward side of the house will have “pressurized” the attic. As a result, the intake vents on the leeward side of the house will work “with” the exhaust vents to release air.

However, if the attic has more exhaust than intake it potentially can cause the extra exhaust to pull its missing intake from itself (if it’s a ridge vent) or from another nearby exhaust vent (from one wind turbine to another or one roof louver to another), which means possible weather ingestion.

3. “What if the roof has 40 feet of available ridge length but the math calls for only 30 feet of ridge vent needed?”
It is OK to install all 40 feet of ridge vent as long as it can be balanced with intake ventilation. If the amount of intake ventilation cannot match the entire 40 feet of ridge vent, consider reducing the width of the ridge vent slot (thereby reducing the vent’s NFA per linear foot) to accommodate the amount of intake NFA available. Doing this keeps the airflow continuous along the entire horizontal ridge and balanced high and low. As always, be sure the overall amount of ventilation meets code requirements.

4. “If attic access is not practical is there another way to measure the attic square footage?”
Ideally, the attic square footage would be measured at the attic floor length x width (regardless of roof pitch, by the way). If this is not possible, and the homeowner does not have any documentation on file listing attic square footage, you could use the footprint of the house (aerial view of the house) or the number of shingle squares (one shingle square equals 100 square feet) to estimate the attic square footage. Neither of the alternate measuring tactics, however, is as accurate as an attic floor measurement.

5. “How does roof pitch come into play when calculating attic ventilation?”
Current IRC requirements do not factor the role a roof’s pitch plays in the amount of attic ventilation needed, but ventilation manufacturers do. Generally, as the roof pitch increases the volume inside the attic also increases along with the amount of needed attic ventilation. Here’s a rule of thumb to follow:

  • Up to 6:12 roof pitch use the standard formula as explained in this article.
  • 7:12 to 10:12 roof pitches increase the amount of ventilation by 20 percent.
  • 11:12 roof pitch and higher increase the amount of ventilation by 30 percent.

For projects involving vents with motors, the calculation formula is different.

NRCA’s Online Column Outlines Benefits of a Properly Designed Attic Ventilation System

NRCA’s “From the Experts” column outlines the benefits of a properly designed attic ventilation system.

When properly designed, attic ventilation systems can make a home more comfortable and prevent numerous roof-related problems, according to Nick Sabino, president of Cincinnati-based Deer Park Roofing.

Sabino outlines the importance of attic ventilation in his column “The importance of attic ventilation,” the official consumer website of the National Roofing Contractors Association (NRCA). The column is posted on the sites “From the Experts” page.

The column states that because attic heat radiates into living spaces, a cooler attic will lead to a more comfortable home and reduced cooling costs.

In addition, roof system components benefit from increased longevity when an attic is well-ventilated. Because all building materials expand and contract as temperatures change, higher attic temperatures lead to increased expansion of the roof, sheathing and structural components, which are negatively affected by an increase in thermal movement.

To read Sabino’s column in its entirety visit the “From the Experts” column on the Everybody Needs a Roof website.